‘Every Chef Must Train At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Dining Spot Earns 4th on Roll of London’s Top Food Spots.

Whenever curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest shop achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.